The Northern Gaza Strip is eerily quiet, a stark contrast to its former status as one of the most densely populated regions in the world. On Wednesday, I had the opportunity to accompany a small group of international journalists, guided by the Israeli military, into Gaza for the first time in two years, nearly a month after the ceasefire was declared. This marked a significant moment as we stood on the edge of an Israeli military outpost, gazing at the remnants of what was once the bustling Shujaiya neighborhood outside Gaza City, a site that witnessed intense conflict during the recent war.
What we encountered was a heartbreaking scene of devastation. The Shujaiya neighborhood, which I used to travel through frequently while reporting for NPR, is now unrecognizable. The landscape is dominated by a vast expanse of destruction, with piles of concrete debris where homes once stood, the skeletons of schools, and concrete beams rising from the ground like grim tombstones. In the distance, the tall high-rise buildings of Gaza City stand as a haunting reminder of the life that once thrived here.
Our visit took us to an Israeli military outpost situated near the yellow line, a boundary established following the ceasefire agreement that effectively divides Gaza. This division separates areas controlled by Israel from those under Hamas control. As a consequence, Palestinians are barred from returning to live in the section of Gaza where Israeli troops are stationed, forcing them to reside in the Hamas-controlled area.
During our time at the outpost, the military personnel presented us with maps detailing the routes of Hamas tunnels that Israeli forces are actively discovering and demolishing. Notably, Israel has permitted both Hamas and the International Committee of the Red Cross to access certain areas to search for the bodies of hostages taken during the attack on southern Israel on October 7, 2023.
As we explored the outpost, it became clear that Israel's military is preparing for a prolonged presence in this part of Gaza. There are plans for the next phase of the ceasefire, which includes the deployment of a multinational peacekeeping force and the disarmament of Hamas. Israel insists that it will withdraw from Gaza only after these conditions are met. However, significant questions linger: Will these next steps unfold as intended? If not, could we be facing a return to conflict? Is this temporary division of Gaza destined to become the new status quo?
The infrastructure at the military outpost is indicative of a long-term commitment, featuring a tall cellphone tower, electricity poles, and fortified cement walls. Meanwhile, on the other side of the yellow line, Hamas is also preparing for the future, regrouping and consolidating its control over its portion of Gaza in the aftermath of the war.
Access to Gaza is tightly controlled by Israel, with only a select group of journalists permitted to enter for short, guided visits. Our interactions were limited, as we could only interview certain soldiers and were prohibited from encountering any Palestinians during our stay. Additionally, Israel's military censors reviewed NPR's raw audio and video footage, restricting the publication of specific materials, including an Israeli military map of Gaza, while allowing other aspects of our reporting to be shared.
This controlled access underscores the complexities of reporting from conflict zones and the ongoing challenges in providing an accurate portrayal of life in Gaza post-war. As the situation evolves, the future remains uncertain for both the residents of Gaza and the broader geopolitical landscape.