In the heart of Rome, the atmosphere is markedly different following the passing of Pope Francis. As the Vatican has been without a leader for two days, a poignant scene unfolded in St. Peter's Square when a group of grey-clad nuns began to sing. Starting softly, their voices swelled as they harmonized on the solemn Ave Maria, encouraging those nearby to join in. Moving forward in the queue to pay their respects at the Pope's lying in state, these nuns turned their faces towards the majestic St. Peter's Basilica, their white veils shimmering under the warm sun. This moment captures the essence of a week that has seen Rome reclaim its stature as the capital of the Catholic universe.
The mood in the city is one of mourning, yet there’s a collective acknowledgment that Pope Francis, who lived to the age of 88, passed away swiftly and peacefully. Many express gratitude that he did not suffer, but this is not a time for celebration. That will come after the funeral, which will ignite the usual frenzy of excitement, intrigue, and speculation surrounding the papal conclave. For now, these in-between days in Rome carry a unique flavor, marked by introspection and contemplation.
Elena, a Romanian woman in her 50s, shared her observations of a more subdued atmosphere throughout the bustling city. "There are big crowds around, but I feel everything is a bit quieter. There is something different in the air," she told the BBC. She noted that even non-believers are feeling the impact of the Pope's death. Her friend Lina, who runs a tobacconist shop in Borgo Pio, echoed her sentiments, stating, "It's neither a week of tragedy nor a celebration. It's a chance for people to reflect, and I think that's much needed."
As people strolled down Via della Conciliazione— the pedestrian thoroughfare linking Italy and the Vatican— preparations were underway for the Pope's final journey. His coffin will travel approximately 4 kilometers to the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, a trip expected to take about two hours as the procession moves slowly to allow mourners to pay their final respects. The Vatican has confirmed that this slow pace is intentional, allowing the public to see the coffin and say their goodbyes.
Despite the heavy security presence, including soldiers wielding advanced anti-drone technology, the atmosphere remained calm. An American student named Caislyn, sketching the dome of St. Peter's, remarked on how safe she felt amidst the crowd. "Everyone is here to pay their respects to Francis and to enjoy this beautiful city," she noted, calling the atmosphere bittersweet. She viewed the upcoming funeral as a celebration of life, reflecting on the Pope's profound impact on the world.
As Caislyn reminisced about the Pope's commitment to the marginalized, many reflected on his last public appearance on Maundy Thursday, when he visited prisoners at Regina Coeli jail, a gesture he had made multiple times. "He never forgot where he was from," Elena said, recounting the Pope's humble beginnings in Argentina. She connected with his efforts to help those in need, sharing her own experiences as a volunteer for the homeless. "It’s not hard for me to feel close to them, and I think it was the same for Francis," she added.
Tourist Dirk, who was waiting for his wife to pay respects, commented on the stark contrast between the wealth of the Vatican and the poverty surrounding it. "I saw a woman who was walking almost bent over, and people in clerical clothing completely ignored her," he noted, highlighting the jarring disparities present in the city.
Katleho, a young woman from Lesotho, expressed her joy at receiving Pope Francis's Easter blessing just a day before his death. "I felt so privileged to be part of this moment," she said, capturing the essence of the shared experience among those gathering to honor the Pope. For three consecutive days, tens of thousands have streamed into St. Peter's Basilica to bid farewell to the Argentinian Pope, who famously described his origins as coming from the "end of the world." Visitors entered the basilica in solemn silence, each one clutching rosaries, children’s hands, or even selfie sticks, as they approached the high altar where the Pope lay in repose.
The collective mourning and reflection experienced in Rome serves as a testament to the profound impact of Pope Francis's life and legacy, uniting people from all walks of life in shared remembrance.
