As a priest and later a cardinal, Jorge Mario Bergoglio made it a point to visit Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the four esteemed papal basilicas in Rome, during his regular trips to the Italian capital. This fourth-century basilica, renowned for its striking bell tower, is situated on one of Rome’s seven ancient hills in the Esquilino neighborhood, nestled between the iconic Colosseum and the bustling Termini train station. Historically, this area served as a burial ground for slaves during the Roman Empire.
During one of his visits, Bergoglio encountered a close call with a suspected pickpocket, but this incident did not tarnish his admiration for the basilica. Fast forward to March 2013, the morning following his elevation to the papacy as Pope Francis, a name he chose in tribute to Saint Francis of Assisi, who renounced wealth to aid the impoverished. On that day, he discreetly left the Vatican to pray at Santa Maria Maggiore, a site he frequented over 100 times during his 12-year papacy, primarily before and after overseas trips.
On March 23, 2023, shortly after being discharged from the hospital following a severe bout of pneumonia, Pope Francis made a poignant stop at Santa Maria Maggiore to deliver flowers on his way back to the Vatican. His most recent visit occurred on April 12, 2023. Following his passing on a Monday at the age of 88, the pontiff will embark on his final journey to Santa Maria Maggiore for burial. As dignitaries, including presidents, prime ministers, and royals, gather for his funeral mass in St. Peter’s Square, Francis will receive a heartfelt farewell from the poor and needy of Rome upon his arrival at the basilica.
In a departure from tradition, Pope Francis is the first pontiff in over a century not to be interred with grand ceremonies in the grottoes beneath St. Peter’s Basilica. Instead, he has chosen a humble resting place in a small niche that previously housed candlestick holders. This burial spot was revealed during a conversation with Javier Martínez-Brocal, the Vatican correspondent for the Spanish newspaper ABC, in April 2023, and later detailed in the book "El Sucesor" (The Successor). Martínez-Brocal noted that Francis simplified his funeral arrangements because he felt that traditional papal funerals were overly extravagant. He expressed a desire for a more pastoral representation, stating, “He didn’t want to be shown lying on cushions; he wanted to be more like a pastor.”
After reviewing several potential burial sites within the expansive basilica, Francis ultimately selected the niche located in the left nave, near the Paolina chapel, which features a revered Byzantine icon of Mary—a figure he held in profound devotion. According to Martínez-Brocal, upon seeing the niche, Francis declared, “This is my place, I want to be buried here,” referring to it as “essentially a closet.” In his final testament, he requested that the tomb remain unadorned, with only his papal name inscribed in Latin: Franciscus.
Pope Francis’s love for Santa Maria Maggiore was further deepened by his personal experiences, including a memorable encounter with a suspected pickpocket. Martínez-Brocal recounted how Francis was approached by a man asking for money, who later attempted to sell him a flashy watch. Sensing a trick, Francis refrained from engaging, later reflecting, “Afterwards, I was told that if I had taken out my wallet, he would have punched me and stolen it.”
The Esquilino neighborhood, once neglected, has evolved into a vibrant, multicultural area where numerous actors and filmmakers have chosen to reside. Although Santa Maria Maggiore may not receive the same level of attention as St. Peter’s Basilica, it is equally breathtaking. Visitors are greeted by magnificent blue and gold mosaics, originally brought back from the Americas by Christopher Columbus, and a chapel designed by the legendary Michelangelo. Notably, the basilica is also the resting place of the celebrated 17th-century Italian sculptor and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini.
In recent years, particularly following Francis’s passing, the basilica has witnessed a surge in popularity among pilgrims and tourists. “He radiated peace through every pore of his being,” reflected Erika, a German doctor residing in Norway, after signing a tribute book for Francis at the basilica’s entrance. Inside, priests offer confessions and blessings, enhancing the spiritual atmosphere. Stephanie Polco, a pilgrim from Mexico, expressed her admiration for the basilica, stating, “I can understand why Francis chose to be buried here. It is breathtakingly beautiful.”
