When visiting the latest installment of the Costume Institute's exhibition, it's essential to understand that it is not merely about clothing. While the focus is on fashion, the essence of the exhibition transcends garments, showcasing the courage and resilience embodied by clothing that has been worn by a people often denied both power and quality attire. This year’s exhibition, titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” is a remarkable presentation that highlights the significance of fashion in the African diaspora, curated by the esteemed scholar Monica L. Miller in collaboration with Andrew Bolton, the head of the Costume Institute.
Set within the expansive Cantor Exhibition Hall at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan, this exhibition is a vibrant exploration of over three centuries of garments, accessories, and sartorial ideas. The galleries, adorned in solemn gunmetal tones, create a fitting backdrop for the academic yet vital themes presented. Although the title may seem ambiguous at first glance, it is rich with meaning and purpose, aiming to invoke a deeper understanding of the objects displayed and their historical context.
The exhibition features a diverse collection that includes paintings, videos, sketches, and contemporary pieces from both renowned brands like Louis Vuitton and emerging designers such as L’Enchanteur and Wales Bonner. Arranged into 12 thematic sections, the display draws inspiration from Zora Neale Hurston’s 1934 work, “Characteristics of Negro Expression.” Some of the themes include “Distinction,” “Jook,” and “Heritage,” each meticulously curated to connect the history of fashion with the evolution of the African diaspora.
Among the hundreds of showcased items are shoes, coats, scarves, jewelry, and even uniquely crafted buttons, all presented on striking onyx mannequins. The exhibition's layout allows for visitors to discover unexpected treasures around every corner, enhancing the overall experience.
As I navigated through the exhibition, I found myself in the captivating “Ownership” section, a compelling introduction to the themes presented. Here, the juxtaposition of historical garments with contemporary fashion pieces illuminates the journey of style and ownership. Notably, a 300-year-old lavender silk livery waistcoat is displayed alongside a modern, double-breasted Balmain suit, embellished with gold accents. This innovative pairing not only showcases the evolution of tailoring but also emphasizes the significance of ownership and identity in fashion.
The juxtaposition of a delicate waistcoat, once worn by a child, and a stiff, aged counterpart creates a powerful narrative about the passage of time and the transformation of style within the African community. Each section seamlessly connects historical garments to their modern counterparts, inviting viewers to reflect on the broader implications of fashion and identity.
“Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is more than just an exhibition; it is a poignant exploration of the intersections between fashion, identity, and history. The thoughtful curation and arrangement of pieces allow visitors to engage with the rich narrative of the African diaspora and the enduring impact of clothing on cultural expression. This exhibition is a must-see for anyone interested in understanding the profound connection between style and the stories it tells.
